Shumen Province

Description

Shumen Province. Just sounds a bit different, don’t you think? It’s one of those Bulgarian places that folks kind of overlook unless you’re really in the know. But let me tell you—if you’re packing your rucksack for Bulgaria and itching for genuine surprises, this area deserves at least a couple of days on your itinerary.

Here’s what makes it unique: for starters, Shumen isn’t hustling to show off. The province stretches through rolling farmlands, forested hills, sleepy villages, and dramatic plateaus—honestly, it’s one of those places where you actually get to breathe and just watch life unfold at its own rhythm. The city of Shumen itself is honest and a little scruffy in that charming, Balkan way. What I love is the mix of cultures; you can wander from medieval Bulgarian fortresses to ancient Ottoman mosques without skipping a beat. In fact, if you’re the sort to chase layers of history—not just postcard moments—this place is right up your alley.

And there’s the history. Gadzooks, there’s a lot of history. The Madara Rider, just scratching the 1300-year-old mark, still clings to the cliffs nearby—a rock carving reading like a riddle from a forgotten civilization. For anyone with a faint pulse of curiosity, poking around the ruins of the old Shumen Fortress is both surreal and oddly humbling. I still remember climbing through broken archways, squinting at the landscape, and wondering who else stood in that spot centuries before me.

But let’s not paint it as a perfect land—if you’re after luxury hotels and polished tourist fluff, it can feel a bit rough around the edges. English isn’t always the default language, but people genuinely try to help. It’s got a lived-in atmosphere, filled with grandmothers selling tomatoes at the markets, and countless stray cats stretching lazily in the sun. The mood is tranquil, sometimes sleepy, sometimes a touch melancholic—and that’s its secret. If you’re looking for an authentic slice of Bulgaria, Shumen gives you just that, with a side of centuries-old stories.

Key Features

• Madara Rider (Madarski Konnik): This UNESCO World Heritage carving is one of Europe’s most mysterious rock reliefs—a warrior on horseback, etched into a 100-meter-high cliff almost 1,300 years ago. If lost legends and unsolved riddles get your heart racing, this is the place to see.
• Shumen Fortress: Perched atop a rugged hill, these fortress ruins offer a sweeping view and a trip through waves of Bulgarian, Byzantine, and Ottoman influences. Every stone seems to tell a story—sometimes with a bit more drama if you catch the wind sweeping through the towers.
• Religious Heritage: The Tombul Mosque, one of the biggest in Bulgaria, sits right in Shumen city. Its blend of Ottoman elegance and neighborhood bustle captures the multicultural vibe.
• Natural Wonders: The province is cut by the wild Kamchiya and Golyama rivers, and is dotted with natural springs, forests, and nature reserves. If quiet, scenic walks are your jam, Shumen has you sorted.
• Authentic Bulgarian Cuisine: Traditional bakeries and lively local markets offer everything from banitsa to homegrown veggies—one little market near the city square makes the best cheese I’ve ever tasted.
• Old and New: Stroll through Shumen and you’ll spot Stalinist-era architecture clinking up against modern cafes and quirky street art. The city isn’t afraid to show every chapter of its history, scars and all.
• Cultural Events: The area gets lively during festival season—especially late spring and early summer—where you’ll spot music, open-air performances, even historical reenactments that seem to sweep half the town in with them.
• Close to Other Gems: With Shumen as a base, you’re a short drive from Pliska (the first Bulgarian capital) and Veliki Preslav. If you’re nuts about archaeology or medieval stories, you’ll be spoiled.

Best Time to Visit

If you ask locals (like I once did, in fractured Bulgarian), most will grin and shrug—because really, Shumen has a charm in every season. But let’s be honest, Bulgarian winters bite hard if you’re not used to them. Imagine medieval ruins under a light dusting of snow, the air sharp and bracing—that’s wintertime for the brave. For most travelers, late spring (May/June) and early autumn (September/October) steal the show. Warm, but not melting; lively, but not crowded. The hills go green, the markets overflow, and the town’s pace suits both dreamers and doers.

Summer? Expect a little heat—okay, a lot of it, especially in July and August. Things slow to a gentle crawl, the cafes spill out onto the pavements, and siesta becomes a survival tactic. My favorite memory is sipping a cold ayran in a shady courtyard while stray kittens played by my feet. If you’re heat-shy, just aim for the shoulders of summer and you’ll enjoy the city’s best side.

How to Get There

Traveling to Shumen Province is much easier than some would think, even if it’s not Bulgaria’s tourist darling. The city of Shumen is about 90 kilometers west of Varna—a port city with a surprisingly decent airport, especially during peak tourist season. If you’re rolling in from Sofia, catch a train or bus; the journey runs about 4-5 hours (longer if you get the slow train, which is a throwback experience in itself—pack snacks!).

Now, let’s talk about driving. If you want freedom to poke around tiny villages or get lost in side roads (highly recommended, at least once), rent a car. The roads are in reasonable nick—nothing to stress about, but do expect the occasional sheep crossing or pothole ambush. Coming from the east, Varna is a direct shot to Shumen along the E70. From the west, Sofia’s main highways make it a straightforward, if not exactly glamorous, trip.

Local buses run regularly between Shumen city and nearby towns (look up the schedules ahead—you’d be surprised how quirky they can be). For the eco-minded, cycling is possible in the warmer months, but plan ahead and bring water—it gets hilly, and the sun doesn’t mess around.

Tips for Visiting

First, slow down. In Shumen Province, nobody rushes unless there’s a downpour or a wedding. Don’t try to check off sights at breakneck speed—take time to sip coffee in a dusty café, chat with street vendors, and watch the world go by. And, honestly, bring an open mind; the province’s scruffy edges are part of its charm.

• Learn a few Bulgarian phrases. Even “hello” (zdraveyte) and “thank you” (blagodarya) can melt the iciest of stares.
• Wear sturdy footwear. Exploring the fortress or Madara cliffs is wonderful, but uneven ground and rocky paths make trainers a better idea than flip-flops. (Trust me, I learned the hard way.)
• Bring cash. Smaller towns and markets shy away from cards; I once had to barter with a vendor using coins and a slightly embarrassing amount of pantomime.
• Don’t skip local food. Shumen’s sour cherry pastries and breads are the stuff of legend. If a grandma offers you homemade rakia, accept (but seriously, just a sip!).
• Check opening hours. Some heritage sites and museums keep irregular timetables—better confirm ahead, especially on holidays.
• Pack a picnic. That’s one of my favorite Shumen traditions—there’s always a spot with a mind-blowing view where you can relax and watch the light change over the hills.
• Respect traditions. From church bells to folk music in plazas, join in if the mood strikes, but be mindful of local customs, especially around religious sites.

And one more thing—don’t just breeze through. Shumen Province rewards those who stay curious, step off the main road, and listen for echoes of bygone times. If you take nothing else from your visit, you’ll at least come home with a pocketful of odd stories, a phone full of landscapes, and maybe, like I did, a fondness for corners of the world that don’t try too hard. Happy wandering!

Location

Places to Stay Near Shumen Province

Find and Book a Tour

Explore More Travel Guides