Church of Old Uppsala

Updated June 11, 2025

## Church of Old Uppsala: Where Sweden’s Pagan Past Meets Its First Cathedral

At the northern edge of Uppsala, the Church of Old Uppsala (Gamla Uppsala kyrka) rises above rolling green burial mounds and open fields. Today it’s a peaceful parish church and a highly rated tourist attraction, but for more than a thousand years this hill was the religious heart of Sweden – first for Norse cults, later for the medieval church.

Address: Disavägen 8, 754 40 Uppsala, Sweden
Coordinates: 59.8994959, 17.6317334

Use this guide to understand why the Church of Old Uppsala matters, what you’ll actually see on site, and how to make the most of a visit without missing the layers of history under your feet.

> Internal jumps for readers:
> – Learn more in the section on the royal mounds and sacred landscape
> – Jump to practical tips for visiting the Church of Old Uppsala

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## From Pagan Sacred Hill to Sweden’s First Archbishopric

Long before the stone church stood here, Old Uppsala was already famous across the Nordic world.

– Archaeology and written sources agree that Gamla Uppsala became an important religious, political, and economic centre from at least the 3rd–4th centuries AD onward.
– Early Scandinavian texts – like Ynglingatal and the Westrogothic law – talk about the “King at Uppsala”, showing this was the symbolic seat of the Swedish kings.

### The elusive Temple of Uppsala

Medieval writers such as Adam of Bremen described a magnificent heathen temple at Uppsala, decorated with gold and associated with sacrifices to Odin, Thor, and Freyr.

Modern archaeology has found remains of large wooden buildings under the current church, and scholars debate whether they belong to:

– a pre-Christian cult temple, or
– one or more early wooden churches built before the stone cathedral.

Because the evidence is fragmentary, the exact form of the pagan temple remains uncertain. When you stand by the church, you’re on top of a genuinely contested – and globally important – piece of religious history.

### Birth of the medieval cathedral

By the 11th–12th century, the site was re-oriented toward Christianity:

– The stone cathedral at Old Uppsala was probably begun in the 11th century and finished in the 12th century.
– In 1164, it became the seat of Sweden’s first archbishop, making this the country’s ecclesiastical capital.

A destructive fire around 1240 changed everything. The nave and transepts were removed in later rebuilding, leaving only the choir and central tower. With a sacristy and porch added, this reduced structure became the more modest church you see today.

A few decades later, the archbishopric moved south to Östra Aros (today’s Uppsala city centre), and the soaring new Uppsala Cathedral took over its role.

Yet Old Uppsala never stopped being a powerful symbol: a place where the shift from Norse cults to Christianity is written into the landscape.

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## Inside the Church: Medieval Art in a Compact Space

From the outside, the Church of Old Uppsala is strikingly compact – almost undersized against the broad ridge and the vast mounds behind it. That small footprint is the remnant of a once much larger cathedral.

### Architecture at a glance

Key points to look for as you walk around the church:

– Romanesque stone construction from the 12th century, with later Gothic vaults added in the 15th century.
– A central tower over the former crossing, which hints at the vanished nave and transepts.
– An 11th-century rune stone set into the wall and additional rune stones nearby, underscoring how pre-Christian and Christian traditions overlap at this site.

Nearby stands a distinctive red wooden belfry, a common feature in Swedish rural churches and a photogenic counterpoint to the heavy stone walls.

### What to notice inside

The interior is simple but historically dense:

– Medieval vault paintings (now faded) from the 15th century add colour to what would otherwise be a very austere space.
– There are several wooden crucifixes, dating from the 12th, 13th and 15th centuries, which provide a rare timeline of medieval devotional art in one small church.
– Among the burials is that of Archbishop Valerius, and King Eric IX was also briefly buried here before his remains were moved to Uppsala Cathedral.

Today the church functions as an active parish church, with regular services alongside visiting tourists. Places In Sweden

Because it is a living place of worship, interior access, photography rules, and quiet hours can change – always check current guidance on arrival or via local tourist information.

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## Royal Mounds and the Sacred Landscape

The church makes much more sense once you understand the landscape around it.

Gamla Uppsala is one of Sweden’s largest and most important burial areas:

– Historically there were between 2,000 and 3,000 burial mounds across the area; agriculture and development have reduced that number to about 250 barrows today.
– Just beyond the church are the famous Royal Mounds (Kungshögarna) – three monumental barrows dating from the 5th–6th centuries, long associated in folklore with gods or legendary kings.

Walk the ridge path and you’ll see how carefully the site was chosen: the mounds dominate the flat plain, creating a natural “stage” for processions and gatherings. Medieval writers even compared the surrounding hills to a theatre encircling the temple.

### What lies inside the mounds?

19th-century excavations settled an old controversy about whether the mounds were natural or human-made:

– In the Eastern Mound, archaeologists found cremated remains, rich grave goods including decorated bronze helmet plates, glass beakers, a board game, and imported items – evidence that the buried belonged to a royal milieu.
– The Western Mound yielded the cremated remains of a warrior with a Frankish sword inlaid with gold and garnets, Roman ivory gaming pieces, and Middle Eastern cameos, showing wide trade connections in the 6th century.

Modern interpretation panels in the surrounding archaeological area help you read this landscape as a royal and ritual centre, not just “pretty grassy hills.” Uppsala

> For readers scanning: learn more in the section on the royal mounds and sacred landscape when planning how long to stay here.

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## Gamla Uppsala Museum and Nearby Sights

Just beyond the church stands Gamla Uppsala Museum, opened in 2000 and designed by architect Carl Nyrén.

Inside, exhibitions focus on:

– finds from the royal mounds and surrounding grave fields,
– the Vendel and Viking Age history of the area, and
– the religious shift from the pre-Christian cults to the medieval cathedral. Uppsala

The museum is run by the Swedish National Heritage Board and regularly offers guided tours (often with English options in summer), family activities and temporary exhibitions.

A short walk away is Disagården open-air museum, with 19th-century rural buildings from Uppland showing everyday life in the region; it operates seasonally with posted opening hours.

> Data note: museum and open-air museum opening times, ticket prices, and tour schedules change by season and year. Always confirm on the official museum or Upplandsmuseet websites before you go.

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## Practical Tips for Visiting the Church of Old Uppsala

### Getting there

– Gamla Uppsala lies about 5 km north of central Uppsala, making it easy to combine with a city stay.
– You can reach it by local bus, car, bike, or a longer walk from the city; Uppsala’s tourism office and current digital maps will give up-to-date route options and timetables.

Because timetables and route numbers change, rely on current local transport apps or official sites rather than any printed schedule you find in older guidebooks.

### Opening hours, entry and fees

– The church and outdoor archaeological landscape are generally free to access, though the church may be closed during services or outside posted opening times.
– The Gamla Uppsala Museum usually charges an admission fee and operates with seasonal hours.

Again, check official websites for the latest information; anything printed more than a season ago can be out of date.

### Accessibility and walking routes

– The churchyard and immediate surroundings are relatively level, but the paths over and around the royal mounds involve slopes and uneven surfaces; they may be challenging for visitors with limited mobility, especially in wet or icy conditions. Uppsala
– Fenced areas are there to protect fragile archaeology and manage erosion – staying on marked paths helps preserve the site.

### Etiquette and photography

– Inside the church, treat it first as a functioning place of worship: avoid loud conversations and flash photography during services. Places In Sweden
– Outside, drones and commercial photography may be regulated. If in doubt, ask locally before flying or setting up tripods.

### How much time to allow

For most visitors:

– 1–1.5 hours covers the church and a careful walk along the ridge by the royal mounds.
– Add another hour or more if you plan to visit Gamla Uppsala Museum and Disagården in season.

> Skim readers can jump straight to these practical tips for visiting the Church of Old Uppsala when using this as a planning guide.

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## Why the Church of Old Uppsala Belongs on Your Sweden Itinerary

The Church of Old Uppsala is not just “a nice old church.” It’s:

– the stone successor to a legendary pagan temple,
– the former seat of Sweden’s first archbishop, and
– the anchor point of one of Scandinavia’s richest archaeological landscapes, with royal burial mounds and thousands of graves spanning two millennia.

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