Parque Terra Nostra

Description

If you find yourself traveling to the lush island of São Miguel in the Azores, Parque Terra Nostra in Furnas is one of those rare places where you can genuinely slow down and reconnect—not only with nature but also with that sense of wonder we tend to lose in the rush of everyday life. Set on Largo Marquês da Praia e Monfort, this historic park has been welcoming guests since 1775 and is often mentioned for its enchanting botanical garden, winding walkways, and especially for its famous thermal swimming pool. On my first stroll through its gates, the rich, earthy scent of volcanic soil and the sight of steam rising over orange-tinted water was unlike anything I’d ever witnessed.

What really sets Parque Terra Nostra apart is how gracefully it blends its deeply-rooted history with modern relaxation. It’s not just a beautiful space—it’s a living ecosystem, a testament to centuries of botanical curiosity, all tucked among Furnas’ legendary geothermal springs. Beyond the signature thermal baths, the park surprises visitors with forested paths, tranquil streams, and an extraordinary collection of plant species from all over the world. Even after several visits, I still find hidden corners and rare botanical specimens that make each trip a little different from the last.

Key Features

Thermal Swimming Pool: A nearly 700,000-liter pool of geothermally heated, iron-rich water, kept between 35-40°C. The unique bronze color may look shocking at first, but it’s completely natural—thanks to minerals from the volcanic earth.
Botanical Garden: Over 12 hectares filled with more than 2,000 species of trees and plants from every continent, including rare cycads, azaleas, and giant camellias. The garden’s avenues change dramatically with the seasons, so you’ll get a very different experience in spring than in autumn.
Jacuzzi Areas: In addition to the main thermal pool, you can dip into smaller, hotter jacuzzis tucked amidst tropical greenery. These are perfect for visitors who want a bit of solitude or a more intense soak.
Historic Art-Nouveau Hotel: While it’s possible to visit just for the park and pools, staying at the classic Art-Nouveau Terra Nostra Garden Hotel gives you early access to the pools and gardens—often before the day-trippers arrive.
Cultural Highlights: As you walk, you’ll notice lava stone bridges, romantic pavilions, commemorative statues, and the famous “Avenue of the Ginkgo Biloba” trees—a favorite spot for autumn photography.
Accessible Paths: Most main routes, including entrance and parking, are fully wheelchair accessible. Kids will love exploring the maze-like paths, and there are plenty of benches for anyone needing a break.
Onsite Restaurant: Known for seasonal produce and classic “Cozido das Furnas”—a local stew cooked using volcanic steam—this is one of those rare tourist spots where the food actually matches the setting.
Hiking Trails: Short, kid-friendly walks as well as longer loops are available, with lots of signage in both Portuguese and English. Even on a busy day, it’s easy to find a quiet corner.
Wi-Fi & Facilities: Free Wi-Fi throughout the park, spacious changing rooms by the pools, and reliable free parking just outside the gates.
LGBTQ+ & Family Friendly: Safety and inclusivity are at the core of Terra Nostra’s ethos. I’ve seen everyone—from toddlers splashing in the shallow edges to older couples strolling hand-in-hand—find a space here where they feel welcome.

Best Time to Visit

I’ve visited Parque Terra Nostra during various months, and the experience really shifts with the Azorean seasons. If you’re a fan of blooming flowers and bright colors, aim for late February through May. During this period, the camellia walk comes to life with thousands of blooms—pictures don’t really do it justice. Autumn (late September to November) is wonderful too, especially on the “Ginkgo Avenue” with its golden foliage.

Summer brings longer days and warmer nights, so an evening dip in the thermal pool can be magical, with warm mist enveloping you as the sun goes down. While winter is rainier, the garden remains lush and the pools are delightfully steamy (nothing beats soaking in hot water with fine rain cooling your face). If you prefer quieter visits, early morning or weekday afternoons are noticeably less crowded year-round.

How to Get There

Parque Terra Nostra is situated right in the heart of Furnas, which is located about 45 minutes’ drive east of Ponta Delgada, São Miguel’s main city. If you have a rental car, getting there is straightforward—just follow the EN1-1A road, and you’ll see signs directing you into Furnas village center. There’s plenty of free parking nearby; I’ve never had trouble finding a spot, even during busier months, though spots closest to the garden tend to fill up by late morning.

If you’re relying on public transport, there are regular buses from Ponta Delgada to Furnas, but keep in mind the schedule can be a bit sparse, especially on weekends. Some visitors take guided day tours, which often include other local attractions like the Furnas Lakes or geysers, but I find having personal transport makes it easier to linger as long as you want.

Once you arrive, the park entrance is well-marked on Largo Marquês da Praia e Monfort. There’s step-free access from the street, and the main paths are wheelchair and stroller friendly.

Tips for Visiting

Bring an old swimsuit: The thermal waters are a rusty orange and will stain light fabrics. Pack a dark-colored swimsuit and a towel you don’t mind sacrificing to the minerals; the park does offer rental towels, but I always bring my own.
Change & shower facilities: Spacious changing rooms with showers are available right by the pool. I always recommend showering thoroughly after your swim to avoid lingering mineral scents.
Mind the temperature: The pool is hot, but those smaller jacuzzis can be even hotter! If you’re not used to geothermal water, start with shorter dips and drink lots of water.
Respect plant life: Many rare species are marked—take time to read the garden’s information panels. Some trees here are hundreds of years old, so stay on designated paths.
Photography: Early mornings or late afternoons get softer light and fewer crowds (plus mist drifting off the thermal pool is extra photogenic).
Dining: Don’t skip the restaurant, especially for local dishes like Furnas corn or the famous “Cozido”. Reservations are a good idea at peak lunch hours.
Stay overnight: If you can, book a night at the onsite hotel. You’ll enjoy near-private access to the pools after hours—a truly serene experience as dusk falls.
Accessibility: Most main trails and key features—including the pool, main garden paths, restaurant, and entrance—are accessible by wheelchair or stroller. Staff are happy to answer questions or assist as needed.
Plan for weather: São Miguel is famous for sudden rain. Bring a compact umbrella or rain jacket, especially in winter and spring. The lush gardens shine even in drizzle!
Allow time: A proper visit takes at least 2-3 hours. To really unwind, budget half a day—you’ll want plenty of time to soak, stroll, and just sit quietly in the gardens.

Whether you’re a botany enthusiast, a lover of hot springs, or simply someone seeking peace and beauty, Parque Terra Nostra offers an atmosphere like nowhere else in Portugal. It’s the sort of place where memories linger long after you leave—a real treat for anyone exploring the wonders of the Azores.