Scaliger Tombs

Description

The Scaliger Tombs, or Arche Scaligere as they’re known locally, are one of those places in Verona that people either stumble upon by accident or deliberately seek out after seeing a picture of those stunning spires reaching toward the Italian sky. They stand right beside the small Romanesque Church of Santa Maria Antica — a humble, ancient stone church that somehow makes the ornate Gothic monuments towering over it appear even more dramatic. And believe me, dramatic is an understatement. Walking up to the enclosed courtyard where these tombs lie feels like stepping into a medieval scene frozen in time.

These five Gothic funerary monuments were built in the 14th century to honor the Scaliger family (also known as the Della Scala family), who ruled Verona for about 125 years during the 13th and 14th centuries. The Scaliger family weren’t just rulers; they were fierce, ambitious, and, if the artistry of their tombs is any indication, deeply concerned with how posterity would remember them. The most famous of the tombs is that of Cangrande della Scala, who reigned during Verona’s golden age and was notably close to Dante Alighieri. His tomb is adorned with his equestrian statue — a powerful, almost defiant image of a leader mounted on his horse at full gallop. It’s difficult not to be moved standing beneath it, even if you know little of medieval history.

Each monument tells a story in stone. You’ll see intricate canopies, or baldachins, tapering like lacework into the sky, every pinnacle carved with saints, angels, and heraldic symbols. The wrought iron fence surrounding them was added to protect the tombs, yet even its design contributes to the artistic beauty of the whole ensemble. Despite being centuries old, the carvings retain a haunting sharpness — the folds of a robe, the expression on a saint’s face, the poise of a horse halted mid-stride. It’s easy to lose yourself staring up, trying to take in every detail.

Cansignorio della Scala’s tomb is perhaps the most elaborate, almost flamboyant in its ambition, covered in sculptures and delicate stone tracery that embody late 14th-century Gothic art at its most expressive. The tomb of Mastino II, another of Verona’s rulers, with its tall spire and equestrian statue, showcases the perfect blend of religious devotion and dynastic pride. There is an undeniable theatricality about these monuments — the scaling of height, the pointed arches, the layering of symbolism — all meant to immortalize a family who quite literally ruled from both life and death.

What’s interesting is that even though these structures are undeniably majestic, they’re set in quite an intimate space. You don’t need to pay to view them; you can simply stand by the wrought iron grilles and gaze in. Perhaps that’s why I love it so much — they’re grand but accessible. You can almost hear the clanging of armor if you let your imagination wander. While many monuments from this era are tucked away inside churches or museums, the Scaliger Tombs stand outdoors, exposed to the elements and the passing people, still watching over Verona centuries later.

Architecturally, they capture the evolution of Gothic style in northern Italy. Earlier tombs like Cangrande’s remain simpler and more restrained, while later ones, such as Cansignorio’s, show influences from the flamboyant Gothic architecture developing across Europe. Those who love architecture will appreciate how these tombs demonstrate the Veronese adaptation of a style that was sweeping through the continent, enriched by local artistry and material. If Verona’s arena speaks to its Roman heritage, then the Arche Scaligere tell you about its medieval soul.

Some days when I’ve passed by, there’s a quietness about the space even with tourists milling about, maybe because it carries this aura of reverence. And I’ve noticed how children are often enchanted — they point at the horse statues or try to read the Latin inscriptions. It’s both a lesson in art history and a reminder that these monuments remain part of the city’s daily rhythm.

Key Features

• Five Gothic funerary monuments: Each dedicated to a member of the powerful Scaliger family — the rulers who shaped medieval Verona.
• Equestrian statues: The tombs of Cangrande della Scala, Mastino II, and Cansignorio della Scala are topped with equestrian statues portraying the deceased in timeless grandeur.
• Gothic architecture and art: Examples of 14th-century craftsmanship, characterized by pointed arches, intricate canopies, and detailed sculptural decoration.
• Historical context: These tombs reflect the ambition, wealth, and religious devotion of Verona’s ruling dynasty during the late Middle Ages.
• Location near Santa Maria Antica Church: The monuments stand in a private courtyard beside this Romanesque church, separated by an elegant wrought iron fence.
• Artistic detailing: Look closely — every inch of stone carries meaning, from heraldry to angelic figures, making it a visual encyclopedia of Gothic symbolism.
• Accessible viewing: The site is open-air and free to view, though guided tours provide deeper historical context.

Best Time to Visit

If you’re planning to visit Verona, the best time to see the Scaliger Tombs is spring through early autumn — roughly April to October. The weather then is pleasant enough for long walks around the historic center, and the lighting during these months makes the stonework glow with golden hues, especially during late afternoon. Honestly, I think the evening light suits Gothic structures so well. The shadows bring out the carvings’ details, and the warmth softens the stone.

Visiting during the shoulder seasons (late March or late October) also means fewer crowds, which is ideal if you like to linger and take photos without too many tourists wandering into the frame. Winter is peaceful too, but it can get chilly, and sometimes the gates close earlier. Verona itself, though, is charming no matter the month. And if you happen to be in town for the Verona Arena’s summer performances, it’s worth popping by here earlier in the day — it rounds out the story of the city beautifully, from Roman grandeur to medieval might.

How to Get There

The Scaliger Tombs are located right in Verona’s historic core, within walking distance from major landmarks like Piazza dei Signori and Piazza delle Erbe. If you’re exploring the city on foot — which you absolutely should — you’ll likely come across them while wandering between these squares. Follow the narrow lanes leading toward the Church of Santa Maria Antica, and suddenly they appear, almost blending into the fabric of the surrounding buildings until their spires draw your eyes upward.

If you’re arriving by train, Verona Porta Nuova is the main station. From there, you can take a local bus or a brisk 25-minute walk through the charming streets. Alternatively, many walking tours of Verona include the Arche Scaligere as a stop, especially those focusing on medieval history or architecture. Since the area is primarily pedestrian, a good pair of shoes and a bit of curiosity are all you really need. There’s limited vehicle access, so taxis usually drop you off nearby — from there, you stroll through narrow alleyways that seem untouched by time.

Along the way, keep an eye out for signs pointing toward major attractions like the church San Fermo Maggiore or Castelvecchio Museum, since all roads in the historic center interconnect in the most delightfully confusing way. Verona rewards wandering.

Tips for Visiting

Here are a few practical tips — and a little personal advice — to help make the most of your visit to the Scaliger Tombs:

• Take your time: These monuments deserve more than a quick glance. Spend at least 15–20 minutes just observing the details from different angles.
• Join a walking tour: Local guides weave fascinating tales about the Scala family and their influence on Verona’s history. You’ll see the art differently once you know the backstory.
• Photography pointers: Morning or late afternoon light enhances the textures of the stone. Try standing slightly off-center to capture both the church wall and the spires in your frame.
• Combine it with nearby sites: The tombs are near Piazza delle Erbe, Piazza dei Signori, and the Lamberti Tower — perfect for a half-day exploration loop.
• Mind accessibility: The immediate area is paved but not ideal for wheelchairs due to cobblestones and narrow lanes. It’s manageable with assistance, though the viewing area itself is flat.
• Bring curiosity, not expectations: They may look smaller than photos suggest, but the intricate artistry is breathtaking up close.
• Stay respectful: This is, ultimately, a burial site — part open-air museum, part sacred space. Keep voices low, especially if a small group is touring quietly nearby.
• Check for festivals or events: Sometimes Verona hosts heritage days or art walks that open nearby courtyards, deepening the experience.

And honestly — don’t rush away. Sit for a few minutes just outside the gate or lean against a wall and watch the people pass by. You’ll notice locals breezing through, pausing briefly as if greeting old acquaintances from the city’s medieval past. Because, in a way, that’s exactly what the Scaliger Tombs are — the eternal guardians of Verona’s story.

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