
Plaza de los Coches
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Description
Plaza de los Coches in Cartagena de Indias is one of those places that immediately pulls you into the rhythm of the city. It’s the kind of square where you can feel the heartbeat of Cartagena—past and present—colliding in the most fascinating way. Once known as Plaza de la Yerba, this triangular plaza sits just behind the iconic clock tower, Puerta del Reloj, marking the main gateway into the walled city. Long ago, this was the site of a bustling market, including a tragic chapter where enslaved people were traded. Today, though, it’s transformed into a lively meeting point filled with history, color, and the sweet scent of local candies wafting through the air.
Walking through Plaza de los Coches feels like stepping into a living postcard. Colonial arches line the edges, their pastel facades glowing under the Caribbean sun. Under those arches is the famous El Portal de los Dulces, where vendors sell traditional sweets—coconut candies, tamarind balls, and other sugary treasures that locals have loved for generations. I still remember the first time I tried one of those sticky coconut treats; it was so sweet I had to chase it with a bottle of cold water, but I’d do it again in a heartbeat.
At the center of the plaza stands the bronze statue of Pedro de Heredia, the city’s founder. It’s impossible to miss, not just because of its size but because it seems to anchor the square in its own sense of pride and memory. Around it, horse-drawn carriages line up, their drivers calling out offers for rides through the cobblestone streets. Sure, it’s a bit touristy, but there’s something charming about hearing the clip-clop of hooves echoing off the old walls as the sun dips low over the city.
What I love most about Plaza de los Coches is how it never feels static. Mornings bring locals grabbing coffee and chatting under the arches, while evenings fill the square with street performers, laughter, and music. It’s a place that wears its history openly yet keeps reinventing itself every day. And even though it can get crowded, especially during high season, there’s a certain magic in watching people from all over the world pause here, cameras in hand, just soaking it all in.
Key Features
- Iconic statue of Pedro de Heredia, the founder of Cartagena, at the heart of the plaza.
- Historic colonial architecture with arcaded walkways and colorful balconies.
- El Portal de los Dulces – a beloved stretch of confectionery stalls selling traditional Colombian sweets.
- Horse-drawn carriage rides offering a nostalgic tour through the old city streets.
- Proximity to major landmarks like the Clock Tower and the walled city gates.
- Wheelchair-accessible entrances and public restrooms for convenience.
- Family-friendly environment and pet-friendly policies make it inclusive for all visitors.
Each of these features adds to the plaza’s layered personality. You might come for the history, but you’ll probably stay for the atmosphere—and maybe a few too many tamarind candies. It’s also a great spot for people-watching. I’ve spent entire afternoons just sitting on a bench, watching the world go by, feeling like time slows down here, even if just for a moment.
Best Time to Visit
Cartagena’s tropical climate means it’s warm year-round, but not every day feels the same. The best time to visit Plaza de los Coches is between December and April when the skies are clear, the humidity is manageable, and the evenings are perfect for strolling. During these months, the plaza becomes especially lively with cultural events, music, and local celebrations. But if you prefer fewer crowds and don’t mind a bit of heat, visiting in the shoulder months—May or November—can be surprisingly pleasant. You’ll get more space to explore and maybe even chat with locals without the usual tourist bustle.
If you’re into photography, try to visit early in the morning or just before sunset. The light hits the colonial facades beautifully, casting long shadows that make for stunning photos. I once caught a photo of the clock tower framed perfectly by the arches—it’s still one of my favorite travel shots. And if you’re a night owl, the plaza after dark has a completely different charm. The glow from the street lamps, the sound of distant music, and the occasional horse carriage passing by—it’s Cartagena at its most cinematic.
How to Get There
Getting to Plaza de los Coches is fairly straightforward since it’s one of the main entry points into Cartagena’s historic center. If you’re staying within the walled city, you can easily walk there—just follow the sound of music and chatter that always seems to lead to the square. From Bocagrande or Getsemaní, a short taxi or rideshare trip will get you there in under ten minutes. And honestly, walking is half the fun if you can handle the heat. The streets leading to the plaza are full of little shops, cafes, and unexpected photo ops at every corner.
For those arriving from the port or airport, taxis are the most convenient option. Make sure to agree on the fare before getting in, as not all taxis use meters. If you’re feeling adventurous, you can even hop on one of the local buses—though I’ll admit, figuring out the routes can be a bit of a puzzle if it’s your first time in Cartagena. But that’s part of the adventure, isn’t it?
Tips for Visiting
Here’s the thing about Plaza de los Coches—it’s easy to get swept up in the beauty of it all and forget the little details that make your visit smoother. So, here are a few tips I’ve learned from experience (and a few sunburns):
- Go early or late: Midday can be scorching, and the plaza gets crowded. Early mornings or evenings are cooler and more photogenic.
- Bring cash: Most candy vendors and carriage drivers prefer cash, and small bills make transactions easier.
- Stay hydrated: The Caribbean sun is no joke. Keep a bottle of water handy, especially if you’re walking the old city.
- Be mindful of pickpockets: It’s generally safe, but like any tourist spot, keep an eye on your belongings.
- Try the local sweets: Don’t leave without sampling cocadas (coconut candies) or enyucados. They’re part of the experience.
- Respect the locals: Remember, this isn’t just a tourist site—it’s a living part of Cartagena’s daily life.
- Take a carriage ride at sunset: Yes, it’s a bit cliché, but the golden light and the sound of hooves on cobblestone streets are pure magic.
One last thing—don’t rush it. Plaza de los Coches isn’t a place you just “see” and move on from. It’s a place you feel. Sit down for a while, talk to the candy sellers, listen to the street musicians, and let the history seep in. Even with its imperfections—like the occasional pushy vendor or the heat that makes your shirt stick—it’s one of those spots that captures the essence of Cartagena. It’s messy, beautiful, and unforgettable all at once.
So, if you’re planning a trip to Cartagena, make sure Plaza de los Coches is on your list. Not just for the photos (though you’ll get plenty of those), but for the experience of standing in a place that has seen centuries of stories unfold. It’s history you can touch, taste, and hear—all in one square. And honestly, that’s what travel should be about.
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