Phitsanulok

Description

Located in the heart of northern Thailand, Phitsanulok is a city that often pleasantly surprises travelers who stray off the typical routes between Bangkok and Chiang Mai. The city municipality, with a 2024 population clocking over 60,000 in the core area and double that in the greater urban sprawl, carries a relaxed, lived-in character. It’s not just a convenient railway hub or overnight waypoint—Phitsanulok offers layers of history, a thriving local food scene, and a quiet riverside charm. You’ll notice right away how daily life effortlessly blends ancient heritage with a sense of modern Thai pragmatism; saffron-robed monks line up for alms as motorbikes whiz by on the main roads beside the Nan River.

For those interested in Thai history, Phitsanulok once served as a royal seat in the Sukhothai era and is known as the birthplace of King Naresuan, one of Thailand’s most illustrious monarchs. The city’s geographical location—straddling the lower northern and upper central regions—makes it a key crossroads for travelers heading to national parks, the historic Sukhothai ruins, or less-visited mountain retreats. But the best rewards come when you linger a little, walking its lively morning markets, wandering centuries-old temples, and sampling spicy noodle dishes you’d be hard-pressed to find in tourist hotspots.

Key Features

Wat Phra Si Rattana Mahathat: Locally known as Wat Yai, this revered temple houses the Phra Buddha Chinnarat, considered by many Thais as the most beautiful Buddha image in the country. Early mornings here have a unique spiritual calm, particularly as locals come to make merit.
Serene Riverfront: The Nan River acts as the city’s heartbeat. Riverside promenades and simple raft restaurants provide the perfect setting for a laid-back meal, especially at sunset when cool breezes roll in.
Folk Museums: The Folklore Museum, tucked near the river, caught me off guard with its eclectic collection of rural artifacts, tools, and folk art—displayed in a wooden Thai house built by a local collector.
Naresuan Shrine & King Naresuan Festival: The city’s pride in its royal heritage is palpable at the Naresuan Shrine, and if you come in late January, the week-long festival in his honor pulses with parades, local food, and cultural performances.
Morning Markets: Don’t miss the fresh markets around the station—packed with local produce, wild mushrooms in the rainy season, distinct northern pickles, and the region’s signature grilled chicken.
Access to National Parks: Within an hour, you can reach Phu Hin Rong Kla and Thung Salaeng Luang national parks. Both offer striking landscapes: rolling pine forests, misty mountains, and hiking trails dotted with wildflowers and waterfalls.
Traditional Boat Races: If your trip coincides with the annual Nan River Boat Races (September–October), you’ll witness vibrantly decorated longboats slicing through the water, cheered on by crowds lining the banks.
Noodle Culture: Phitsanulok is famous for “Kuay Tiew Phitsanulok”—rice noodles in rich broth with pork, beef, or roasted duck. Many shophouses serve recipes passed down for generations.

Best Time to Visit

I’ve visited Phitsanulok during both the cool and rainy seasons, and each brings a different atmosphere. The cool season (November to February) is generally the most pleasant, with daytime highs between 20–28°C and comfortable nights. It’s ideal for strolling the markets, exploring temples on foot, and heading out to the nearby national parks where you’ll find misty mornings and blooming wildflowers.

If you’re interested in local cultural events, late January is when the city hosts the annual King Naresuan Festival. The riverfront is alive with food stalls, stage shows, and concerts, making it a fantastic (and delicious) time to dive into local life.

The rainy season (June to October) sees lush green countryside and the Nan River at its fullest, which also means you can catch the boat races if your timing is right. Ponchos are a good idea, but the showers rarely last all day.

April and May can get hot, as much as 38°C in the afternoons. If you’re heat-tolerant, you’ll find fewer domestic tourists and a slightly sleepier pace—but keep sun protection handy!

How to Get There

Phitsanulok’s location makes it one of the most accessible cities in northern Thailand, whether you’re coming from Bangkok or Chiang Mai. Here’s what you need to know:

By Train: The city lies on the northern railway line. Trains from Bangkok’s Hua Lamphong or Don Mueang stations take 5–6 hours depending on the service. Morning express trains are comfortable, but I’ve also enjoyed overnight journeys from Chiang Mai—waking up as the fields roll past in the dawn light.
By Bus: Regular buses connect Phitsanulok to both the capital and nearby provinces. The main bus station is a few kilometers east of town, but there are local songthaews (shared taxis) and tuk-tuks to whisk you into the city center.
By Air: Phitsanulok Airport (PHS) is just 8 km from downtown. Direct flights from Bangkok land here daily, and airport taxis take about 10–15 minutes into the city. It’s convenient if you’re in a hurry, but you’ll miss a bit of the countryside scenery.
By Car: The drive from Bangkok via Highway 32 takes around five hours. Road conditions are good, and there are plenty of stops for food or coffee along the way. For those planning to explore rural areas or national parks, renting a car offers maximum flexibility.

Tips for Visiting

Tune Into Morning Life: Get up early to see the city at its most animated—monks slip through quiet streets, vendors set up at the riverside market, and locals line up for sweet coconut coffee. It’s an authentic slice of daily life.
Dress Respectfully for Temples: At Wat Yai and other sacred sites, modest attire goes a long way. Covering shoulders and knees is expected. I’ve noticed respectful visitors are often greeted with bigger smiles.
Try Local Dishes: Seek out a ‘Kuay Tiew Phitsanulok’ noodle stall—these places often look unassuming, but the broth is rich, and some serve a deep-fried garlic topping that’s become a personal addiction. Grilled river fish and spicy nam prik (chili dips) are also city highlights.
Stay by the River: Simple guesthouses and mid-range hotels with Nan River views offer a peaceful retreat after a day exploring. Waking up to the sound of birds and breezes across the water is worth the small price difference.
Explore Beyond the City: Make time for a day trip to Phu Hin Rong Kla or Thung Salaeng Luang—both parks reveal different sides of northern Thailand, from dramatic rock formations to fields bright with Siam tulips in the wet season.
Cash Is King: While bigger shops and hotels accept cards, most markets, small eateries, and local transportation rely on cash payments. ATMs are widely available; it’s smart to carry change and small notes.
Local Festivals: If your calendar is flexible, plan your visit to catch either the King Naresuan Festival or the dramatic Nan River Boat Races. Both bring the city together and are great fun even if you don’t speak Thai.
Getting Around: Most of Phitsanulok’s sights are walkable within the core area. For more distant spots, tuk-tuks and motorcycle taxis are inexpensive and easily arranged. Bicycle rentals are also available if you prefer a slower pace.

Phitsanulok might not always be the first destination travelers consider when planning a trip to Thailand’s north, yet that’s what gives it an appeal unlike anywhere else. Spend a few days, and you’ll probably find yourself lingering over riverside meals and reminiscing about those misty mornings long after you’ve moved on.