Nólsoy Lighthouse

Description

Nólsoy Lighthouse, known locally as Nólsoyar viti and often called Borðan Lighthouse, sits on the far southern tip of the long, low island of Nólsoy in the Faroe Islands. Two lighthouses actually mark this end of the island: a smaller light you can spot from Tórshavn across the sound, and the larger, classic white-and-red tower built in 1893 at a windswept headland called Borðan. The bigger one is the goal most hikers have in mind. As maritime beacons go, this one is a charmer: a stout cylinder braced against the Atlantic, surrounded by a handful of old service buildings and bottomless ocean views that feel properly Faroese—open, honest, a little raw.

Travelers come for the hike and the feeling of clarity that follows: a slow amble over moorland, sheep paths, and peat—then the sudden arrival of the edge, where waves hammer cliffs and the wind talks in full sentences. The walk begins in Nólsoy village, a pocket-size settlement of turf-roof houses and boatshed doors painted in unapologetic colors. From the harbor, the path threads south over the island’s spine; on a clear day you’ll see Streymoy and Tórshavn fading behind you and a horizon with more blue than you thought existed. The route is straightforward but not a sidewalk—expect sections of soggy ground, a few modest rises and dips, and weather that changes its mind because, well, the Faroes.

Historically, the lighthouse in Nólsoy is often cited as the first “real” Faroese lighthouse era—late 19th century, a time when proper coastal lights were strung along this archipelago to protect North Atlantic shipping. A light station here made good sense. Ships moving in and out of Tórshavn needed a clear, unwavering aid to navigation on the south end of the island, especially in fog. The complex once supported a lighthouse keeper and assistants; automation has quieted that rhythm, but the buildings still whisper stories: lamps trimmed, foghorns tested, a kettle on the boil while gales swept in from the south. During the Second World War, the British safeguarded these islands; radio chatter, convoy routes, and coastal vigilance were part of life up here. If you’re tuned to history, you might catch faint echoes of that time as you walk past the old utility sheds.

Nature-wise, the island earns its reputation. Nólsoy is famous among birders for storm petrels—huge numbers nest here, making nighttime guided walks in summer a standout, if you can swing one. You might glimpse puffins offshore too, though the petrels are the local headliners. The island’s highest point, Eggjarklettur, rises toward the northern half, while the lighthouse route undulates across the southern moor. It’s an island that feels approachable. Kids with energy tend to thrive on the open spaces, and parents can relax a bit because the terrain is never extreme, just… Faroese. Open, exposed, but doable with proper layers and common sense.

Is Nólsoy worth visiting? For hikers, photographers, families, and anyone who has wanted to stand at a brink and watch the ocean keep its appointments—yes. It’s close to Tórshavn, but it doesn’t behave like a suburb. It behaves like a small North Atlantic island, where sheep rule the footpaths and light standards lean into the wind. This writer once watched a squall slide in from the southeast here—five minutes of cold, needling rain, then the world turned to silver and the sea erupted in sun. It wasn’t dramatic for drama’s sake. It just was, and that’s the point.

On a practical note, the walk to the larger lighthouse is roughly 12–14 km round-trip depending on the variations you take, typically 4–5 hours plus time spent at the point. Wayfinding is by cairns and faint tracks, with a few poles; it’s easy enough in good visibility, a different story in fog. While most visitors come back flushed with delight, they’ll also tell you to bring solid waterproof boots. The path crosses peat bogs; the islands keep secrets in the soil. And the wind—bring hats, hoods, and an understanding that a steady 40 km/h breeze is not news here, just another day in the Faroes.

Key Features

• Signature lighthouse complex at Borðan (Nólsoyar viti), with the larger light built in 1893 and a smaller companion light closer to Tórshavn
• Rewarding day hike: approximately 12–14 km round-trip, 4–6 hours including stops, with modest elevation and occasional boggy sections
• Expansive coastal views toward Streymoy, the North Atlantic, and the outer islands—photography heaven on clear days
• Authentic Faroese moorland terrain with cairn-marked segments, grazing sheep, and changing light all day long
• Birdlife highlights: Europe’s largest colony of storm petrels on Nólsoy; seasonal seabirds and offshore puffin sightings
• History in situ: one of the earliest major lighthouses in the Faroe Islands, once staffed with keepers and essential fog signals
• Family-friendly adventure when planned well; older kids generally enjoy the open landscape and the “lighthouse at the end of the island” payoff
• Balanced solitude: close to Tórshavn yet quiet, with a sense of remoteness without logistical headaches
• Distinctive double-lighthouse story: two lights at the island’s southern end aiding ships entering Nólsoyarfjørður
• Year-round character: calm summer evenings and wild winter seascapes for those who love weather-watching

Best Time to Visit

Late spring through early autumn, from May to September, offers the most forgiving conditions for the hike to Nólsoy Lighthouse. Days are long—astonishingly long at the peak of summer—so you get both time and flexibility. Birdlife is in full swing. Sea stacks glow at golden hour. Families will find these months the most practical: steady ferry service, easier trail footing (still muddy in places), and a lower risk of stubborn fog that can disorient first-time visitors.

July and August are prime for photographers and casual hikers. Expect mild temperatures (think 8–14°C), unpredictable bursts of rain, and plenty of daylight to wait out passing showers. If you’re hoping to join a local nighttime walk to learn about storm petrels, summer is your window. Early autumn, September into early October, sees richer colors and fewer crowds; winds pick up, and daylight shortens, but the island mood is absolutely lovely then—dramatic skies, crisp air, and a lighthouse backdrop that feels extra cinematic.

Winter is a different kind of beautiful: powerful seas, roaring wind, and moody skies. The path remains passable to experienced hikers with proper gear, but it’s a serious outing with limited daylight and frequent storms. If that’s your season, build in spare days for weather. The Faroe Islands sometimes run a “Closed for Maintenance, Open for Volunteers” long weekend in spring, where selected paths close for conservation work. It’s a brilliant initiative. If your dates overlap, consider volunteering or simply adjust your hike day.

How to Get There

Start in Tórshavn, the Faroese capital on Streymoy. From the harbor area, a short passenger ferry ride carries you across Nólsoyarfjørður to Nólsoy village. The crossing is quick—around 20 minutes—and surprisingly scenic. Because Nólsoy is car-free for most visitors, this is one of those welcome experiences where logistics are simple: hop on the boat, hop off, and you’re in the village. From there, it’s your legs and a well-packed day bag.

The trailhead isn’t a single, formal gate so much as a direction: south. Walk through the village toward the island’s narrow waist and moorland. Follow cairns and occasional markers leading over undulating peat and grass. The path splits subtly in places; generally, keep the island’s southern end ahead, with the coastline off your flanks at a distance. In good visibility, you’ll soon understand the island’s shape—long, slender, and honest—and you can’t truly get lost if you stick to the line of cairns and avoid the cliff edges.

Expect a steady, easy grade with a few short ups and downs rather than one big climb. Depending on pace, it’s 2–3 hours to the larger lighthouse at Borðan. Many walkers pause at the smaller light first, especially if visibility favors a quick detour to the coast. Sheep tracks crisscross the moor; don’t rely solely on them. If the cloud drops and fog winds in, use an offline map and a compass app to keep your bearing. Mobile signal is usually fine near the village and sporadic further south—enough to send a text sometimes, not always enough to stream.

Prefer sea spray to peat? Weather permitting, seasonal boat tours from Tórshavn sometimes loop around Nólsoy, showing the lighthouses from the water and slipping beneath cliffs where kittiwakes scream and the sea glints like steel. It’s a different angle on the same story. But if the lighthouse experience you want involves a sandwich on a headland and the steady whoosh of waves below, the hike is the ticket.

Tips for Visiting

Plan like a local and the day will sing. A few practical notes help the experience tilt from good to great:

• Gear and clothing: Waterproof boots are not optional—the moor holds water like a sponge. Bring a windproof shell, warm layers, and a hat that won’t go airborne. Gloves are a comfort in shoulder seasons.
• Navigation: The route is cairn-marked but not a manicured trail. Download an offline map before leaving Tórshavn. In fog, stick to the high ground and keep wide of the cliffs.
• Food and water: There are no facilities at the lighthouse. Pack lunch, snacks, and at least 1–1.5 liters of water per person. Restrooms are in Nólsoy village—go before you go.
• Safety near edges: Atlantic cliffs are undercut, and grass can be slippery. Keep well back, especially in wind. Hold hands with younger kids near any drops.
• Family notes: The hike suits outdoorsy children used to walking 10+ km with breaks. If that’s a stretch, set a turnaround time rather than a must-reach goal. The first hour alone delivers sweeping views.
• Birdlife and drones: Nólsoy is a sanctuary for nesting birds. Avoid flying drones during breeding season and respect any local guidance. Give nesting sites a wide berth.
• Leave no trace: Close gates, step carefully around lambing sheep in spring, and pack out all litter. The peat heals slowly; stay on established lines where possible.
• Weather timing: Check the day’s forecast on shore, then add a margin for error. In the Faroes, forecasts are directionally correct rather than precise, and showers come quickly. Build slack into your return ferry plan.
• Costs and expectations: The Faroe Islands are part of the Kingdom of Denmark and are self-governing. Prices reflect a remote North Atlantic economy: ferries are reasonably priced; cafés and meals can run 150–300 DKK; mid-range hotels in Tórshavn often land near 1,000–2,000 DKK per night. Pack snacks to help the budget.
• Photography tips: Bring a polarizer for glare off the sea, and a microfiber cloth for mist. Wide angles are wonderful here, but a short tele (70–200mm) compresses waves and cliffs beautifully.
• When sites “close”: If you hear the Faroes are “closing to tourists,” that’s shorthand for a spring maintenance weekend when select areas pause regular visitation. It’s a positive, conservation-driven tradition—simply check your dates and pivot if needed.
• Time buffers: Allow 6–7 hours dock-to-dock if you want a relaxed day with photo stops. Add extra time if the forecast looks changeable.
• Emergency and signal: The Faroese emergency number is 112. Coverage varies on the south moor; send your ferry return time to someone in advance.
• Respect the village: Nólsoy village is small and neighborly. Keep voices down early and late, and give working harbors the right of way.

One last perspective check, because it matters. People sometimes ask why this lighthouse hike feels so special when other Faroese hikes might be steeper or more famous. It’s the blend. Easy logistics from Tórshavn. A real sense of crossing an island. Two historic lights, not one. An end point that doesn’t disappoint. And the spaciousness, the way the moor folds into the sea while Tórshavn looks, across the water, like a toy town. If a friend asked whether Nólsoy was worth their time, the honest answer here would be yes—especially if they love landscapes that are powerful without trying too hard.

Call it what you like—the lighthouse in Nólsoy, Nólsoyar viti, Borðan, even Nolsø fyr—the experience keeps its promise. Step off the ferry, follow the cairns, and let the wind do the rest.

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