Fes

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Description

Fes, tucked away in the northeastern corner of Morocco, feels like stepping through a crack in time. It’s not just a city—it’s a living, breathing museum of Moroccan heritage. The air hums with the echoes of centuries-old prayers, the clatter of artisans hammering brass, and the faint scent of tanned leather drifting from the ancient Chouara Tanneries. Fes isn’t polished or pretentious; it’s raw, layered, and unapologetically authentic. And maybe that’s what makes it so magnetic.

Walking through Fes El Bali, the city’s legendary walled medina, is like wandering through a labyrinth built by poets and dreamers. Narrow alleys twist and turn, leading you past spice stalls, hidden courtyards, and doorways that seem to whisper stories of dynasties long gone. The medina’s architecture—oh, it’s something else. The Marinid craftsmanship, with its intricate cedar wood carvings and zellij tile mosaics, gives the place a kind of quiet grandeur. The Bou Inania and Al Attarine madrasas, both dating back to the 14th century, are perfect examples of this artistry. I remember standing in Bou Inania once, running my fingers over the cool tiles, and thinking how every inch of this city seems built with intention.

But Fes isn’t just about the past. It’s a city that still breathes tradition in the present. Locals greet you with a warmth that feels genuine, not rehearsed. You’ll see craftsmen still working the way their ancestors did, shaping copper, weaving rugs, or dying leather in vivid colors that seem to defy time. There’s a rhythm here—a slow, deliberate pace that invites you to pause, to look closer, to listen. And that’s what makes Fes special. It doesn’t perform for tourists. It simply exists, and you’re lucky enough to witness it.

Key Features

• Fes El Bali Medina: One of the largest car-free urban zones in the world, filled with over 9,000 narrow lanes and centuries-old architecture.
• Bou Inania Madrasa: A 14th-century religious school showcasing exquisite Marinid craftsmanship, open to non-Muslim visitors.
• Al Attarine Madrasa: Known for its intricate tilework and cedar wood details that reflect the golden age of Moroccan artistry.
• Chouara Tanneries: The oldest leather tannery in the world, where traditional dyeing techniques are still practiced.
• Royal Palace (Dar el-Makhzen): While not open to the public, its majestic golden gates are a must-see photo stop.
• Local Souks: Bustling markets selling everything from handwoven carpets to aromatic spices and handmade ceramics.
• Jnan Sbil Gardens: A peaceful escape from the medina’s chaos, offering lush greenery and fountains dating back to the 18th century.
• Traditional Hammams: Authentic Moroccan bathhouses where visitors can experience ancient relaxation rituals.

Best Time to Visit

If you ask me, spring and autumn are the sweet spots for Fes. From March to May and again from September to November, the weather strikes that perfect balance—warm enough to enjoy rooftop mint tea but not so hot that you melt halfway through the medina. Summer, on the other hand, can be brutal. The heat bounces off the stone walls and makes wandering the narrow alleys feel like walking through an oven. I once visited in July and learned that lesson the hard way—trust me, you’ll want to avoid that.

Winter, though mild compared to Europe, can get surprisingly chilly, especially at night. But there’s a certain charm to Fes in winter too. The crowds thin out, the air smells fresher, and you can explore at your own pace. Plus, sipping hot mint tea while wrapped in a blanket on a riad terrace? Pure bliss.

How to Get There

Getting to Fes is easier than many travelers expect. The city’s airport, Fès–Saïs International Airport, welcomes flights from several European cities and other Moroccan destinations. From there, it’s just a short taxi ride to the medina. If you’re already in Morocco, trains are a comfortable and scenic option. The ONCF railway connects Fes with major cities like Casablanca, Marrakech, and Tangier. Personally, I love the train rides here—the landscapes shift from rolling plains to rugged hills, and you get a real sense of Morocco’s diversity.

For those who prefer the road, long-distance buses are reliable and budget-friendly. Companies like CTM and Supratours offer routes connecting Fes to almost every corner of the country. Just be prepared for some winding roads if you’re coming from the north. And here’s a little tip: if you’re staying in the medina, arrange transport with your riad ahead of time. Cars can’t enter the old city, and finding your way through those alleys with luggage can be… let’s just say, an adventure.

Tips for Visiting

Fes can be overwhelming at first glance. The medina is a maze—literally. But that’s part of its charm. My first time there, I got lost three times before lunch, and honestly, those detours ended up being the best part of my day. You stumble upon hidden courtyards, tiny cafés, and artisans who are happy to chat about their craft. Still, it helps to have a few tricks up your sleeve.

• Hire a local guide: Especially on your first day. They’ll help you navigate the medina and share stories you’d never find in a guidebook.
• Dress modestly: Fes is conservative, and respecting local customs goes a long way toward earning smiles and friendly interactions.
• Bargain politely: Haggling is part of the culture, but keep it friendly. A good rule? Offer about half the asking price and work from there.
• Stay hydrated: Between the heat and all the walking, you’ll need it. Bottled water is easy to find.
• Bring small change: Useful for tips, small purchases, and the occasional restroom fee.
• Watch your step: The medina’s cobblestones can be uneven, especially after rain. Comfortable shoes are a must.
• Take breaks: Find a rooftop café, order mint tea, and just watch life unfold below—it’s one of the best shows in town.

And one last thing—don’t rush Fes. This city reveals itself slowly, like a story that unfolds one page at a time. The more you linger, the more you notice—the way the light hits the tiles in the afternoon, the rhythm of the call to prayer echoing through the alleys, the laughter of kids playing in hidden courtyards. Fes may not always be easy, but it’s real. And that’s what makes it unforgettable.

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