Szolnok

Description

Szolnok isn’t the kind of city that ends up on the top ten must-see lists for Hungary, but honestly, I think that’s part of its charm. Located smack-dab on the banks of the Tisza river, right in the middle of the Great Hungarian Plain, Szolnok is the beating heart of Jász-Nagykun-Szolnok county. You’re technically in central Hungary here, but you’ll feel the laid-back pulse that sets it apart from the speed of Budapest or Debrecen.

The city has long been a crossroads, and boy, does it show. Traders, soldiers, and artists have all left their mark on the area, a place where the Hungarian spirit meets a melting pot of cultures—Jász, Nagykun, and more. I once sat at a tiny riverside café, just people-watching, and in about an hour overheard at least three different dialects wafting over the mugs of aromatic “fekete” (coffee). That’s Szolnok for you—a bit quirky, always authentic, and brimming with history and surprises for anyone willing to look beyond the usual.

This city doesn’t yell for attention. It just quietly invites you in for a walk along the Tisza’s embankment or dares you to amble through its open-air markets, or, if you’re like me, get a bit lost wandering among belle-époque architecture and those post-Soviet buildings jostling for elbow room. Szolnok is very much alive—home to festivals, eccentric galleries, world war monuments, and thermal spas where locals soak away their day. The blend of old and new is, shall we say, most obvious here, not always beautiful, but always honest.

One thing about Szolnok: it’s a hub without the pretense. Whether you’re after a slice of small-town life, craving Hungarian cuisine, or looking to map out your next adventure in the region, there’s a good chance you’ll stumble on something memorable.

Key Features

• Strategic location – Szolnok is located on the Tisza and Zagyva rivers, right in the center of the Great Hungarian Plain, making it a natural crossroads from ancient times to today.
• Cultural fusion – Influenced by Jász, Nagykun, and other cultures. If you want a crash course in central Hungary’s diversity, Szolnok is your classroom.
• Rich local art scene – The city has some of Hungary’s best public art, galleries, and a renowned annual Plein Air Art Camp. The Szolnok Gallery is quirky and inspiring!
• Tisza riverfront life – Locals love to bike, jog, and picnic along the embankment. Trust me, an evening stroll here is the best way to feel what Szolnok is about.
• History everywhere – From Ottoman memories to World War bridges, and an aviation history museum (RepTár) that’s surprisingly impressive.
• Thermal experiences – The city is literally bubbling with thermal waters. Nothing says “I’m in Hungary” like sinking into Szolnok Spa’s mineral pools.
• Locally-loved markets – Weekly farmers’ markets bring a true taste of Hungarian produce and crafts. I still remember the honey-seller who insisted I try “just one more” spoonful.
• Connection hub – Excellent rail and bus connections make it a smart base for exploring the wider Jász-Nagykun-Szolnok county and the Great Plain region.
• Quirky bridges and viewpoint towers – The Tisza bridge is a favorite for cycling and sunset watching, plus you’ll spot WW2 memorials scattered around.
• Affordable and friendly – Compared to Budapest or Szeged, eating out and accommodation in Szolnok tend to be easier on your wallet.

Best Time to Visit

I’ll be straight with you—Szolnok is truly a year-round destination, depending on what kind of trip you’re after. If you’re hoping for river adventures and vibrant city events, spring (April–June) and early autumn (September–October) win hands down. These months bring mild weather, with average highs between 18°C to 25°C (65–77°F), heaps of greenery along the Tisza, and plenty of outdoor concerts, art festivals, and community events. I once stumbled into a September harvest fest here—dancing, open-air cooking, and local wines—just because I followed the music.

Summer is also a popular time, especially if you’re into water sports or sunbathing on the Tisza’s banks, although it can get pretty hot—sometimes 30°C (86°F) or above. Don’t knock winter, either: it’s a quieter town then, but I swear, soaking in a local thermal spa while it’s snowing outside is a memory you won’t forget.

Festivals really give the city extra energy, so it’s worth timing your trip if you’re after something lively. The May Day events, International Tisza Fish Festival, and the Szolnok Goulash Festival are standouts. Mind you, if you just prefer to take it easy, late fall and winter bring a more contemplative, small-town feel and, bonus, hardly any tourist crowds.

How to Get There

Getting to Szolnok isn’t rocket science, but it does help to know a few tricks. Located about 100 kilometers (roughly 62 miles) southeast of Budapest, it’s well connected to most major Hungarian cities. If you’re starting out in Budapest, the train is by far the easiest and most popular option—there are direct InterCity trains almost hourly from Budapest’s Nyugati station. The ride takes about an hour and a half, give or take, and passes through some stunning stretches of flat plain.

For those behind the wheel, pick up the M4 motorway and you’ll be cruising into Szolnok within an hour and ten minutes, depending on traffic (Hungarian roadworks can be unpredictable, so factor in some padding). There are also frequent buses from Budapest and other major towns in Jász-Nagykun-Szolnok county. If you’re arriving from outside Hungary or thinking in international terms, Budapest Ferenc Liszt International Airport is your closest gateway. From there, it’s a matter of hopping on a shuttle or train to Szolnok.

Tip—local taxis and buses within Szolnok make moving around easy enough, but the city center is walkable. I rarely need anything more than comfortable shoes (though I have gotten charmingly lost in the backstreets more than once!).

Tips for Visiting

• Bring cash and a sense of adventure – Many smaller cafés, markets, and local spas are still cash-preferred or cash-only, and discovering them is half the fun. ATMs are around, but keep some for markets.
• Eat like a local – Don’t leave without trying Szolnok-style goulash or “halászlé” (fish soup) by the Tisza. And if a local invites you for pálinka—say yes, but pace yourself!
• Pack layers – The Great Plain has a mind of its own weather-wise; it’ll be hot one minute, breezy the next. Summers are hot, but don’t underestimate spring and autumn chilliness, especially at night.
• Check event calendars – If you like festivals (or if you want to avoid crowds), look up the Szolnok city calendar ahead of time. I once missed the Tisza Fish Festival by one day and regretted it!
• Don’t rush – Szolnok runs at a more relaxed, “plain” pace. Locals take the time to talk, linger over coffee, and stroll—so sink into that rhythm.
• Explore beyond the city center – Venture out to the river paths, the RepTár Aviation Museum, and the district of Tabán for a different slice of local life.
• Respect cycling culture – Bike paths are everywhere. If you’re a cyclist, you’ll love the network; if not, be wary (they go fast!).
• Mind business hours – Many shops and markets close by early afternoon on Saturdays, and Sundays can be sleepy or completely shut, so plan ahead if you need essentials.
• Use Szolnok as your regional hub – With its rail and bus connections, it’s a smart base for exploring Jász-Nagykun-Szolnok county, the open steppe of the Great Hungarian Plain, or even a day trip down to Tiszafüred for birdwatching.
• Let yourself be surprised – Sometimes you’ll stumble into a local art show, stumble on a riverside jazz concert, or catch a festival parade. Go with the flow—that’s Szolnok’s style.